South Iliniza 5.248 m / 17,213 ft
The most accesible steep climb from Quito
TRIP OVERVIEW
South and North Ilinizas are located about 55 km south west of Quito. Originally, there was one volcano, which exploded in a massive eruption that split the mountain in half a very long time ago. The two peaks are separated by a saddle and are about 2 km away from one another. There is a small refuge between the two peaks: Iliniza South is icy and hard to climb. North Iliniza is rocky and a lot easier.
Arrive/Depart: Quito
Group Size: 1:2
Pre-requisites: Climbing experience on ice up to 45 degrees
Difficulty Levels: Strenuous
EXPLAIN DIFFICULTY LEVELS
Extension: Optional 1 extra day for weather contingency
Access/Depart: Drive in and drive out with 3 hours hike to the hut
Accomodation: Nuevos Horizontes Hut (4.700 m / 15,416 ft)
Activity: Hiking / Climbing
Seasons: All year round
Equipment: Climbing Excursions Gear List
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ITINERARY
Iliniza South offers some of the most accessible hard climbing from Quito. This steep and crevassed mountain is one of the more difficult climbs in Ecuador, and is not for beginners. The ascent of the South peak involves a modest gain in altitude but with some technical difficulty depending on the amount of snow there is at the time we go there. The route is from the south west side of the mountain and averages 40 degrees in angle, with some front pointing below the summit. From the top there are spectacular views of North Iliniza, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.
DAY
01
Travel to Iliniza Ecological Reserve
- Pick up at Quito at around 9:00
- Travel for 2 hours to the Iliniza Ecological Reserve
- 3 hour hike up to the hut
- Safety talk and walk around during the afternoon
- Early dinner at 18:00
Activity: 3 hour trekking
Transportation: 2-hour private van/jeep transfer
Meals: Lunch / Dinner
DAY
02
Summit South Iliniza / Return to Quito
- Climb South Iliniza leaving at 04:00
- Descend from mountain to the hut
- Rest, and packing
- Descend to the vehicle
- Return to Quito
Activity: 5 hours climbing up / 2 hours descending
Transportation: 2-hour private van/jeep transfer
Meals: Lunch
Important: Please note that this itinerary is a guideline only. We will do every effort to follow it, but in case of unforeseen circumstances we may have to make changes.
WHY TAKE THIS TRIP WITH US?
Our mountain guides are an integral part of Andeanface because they understand and share our climbing principles. The quality of our guiding staff is the primary difference between us and our competitors. The guides we employ are personally known to us for several years, this has given us some of the best reputation. More importantly we consider safety on the mountains our main goal.
Activities
Hiking, steep climbing on 40 degress
Terrain
South Iliniza is the most accessible hard climb from Quito
Travel
We travel to Iliniza by jeep, and hike for 3 hours to the hut, horse support is an option
Weather
Due to its position west of the Andean range, is one of the peaks which has more sable weather
RECOMMENDED CLIMBS
Below is a list of some hikes that can be done as a preparation for South Iliniza.
1. Cuicocha | 3.300 m / 10,824 ft
2. Pasochoa | 4.200 m / 13,800 ft
3. Corazon | 4.788 m / 15,704 ft
4. North Iliniza | 4.788 m / 15,704 ft
Explore a crater lagoon from all its spectacular angles
Duration
1 dayElevation
3.200 m / 10,496 ftDifficulty
Easy
A great trek with a view of the pristine forest…
Duration
1 dayElevation
4.200 m / 13,776 ftDifficulty
Easy
A long trek on a mountain with a “heart”
Duration
1 dayElevation
4.788 m / 15,704 ftDifficulty
Moderate
